Don José Tequilas

By BILL RODRIGUEZ  |  September 10, 2008

Johnnie had the pollo en adobo ($16.95), served with the same sides. The juicy chicken breast had been sautéed with white wine and topped with a smoky-sweet ancho chile sauce, spinach, a tomato slice (under-ripe, though), and melted cheese. The flavor came through separately.

As the restaurant’s name declares, numerous tequilas (32) and their resulting margaritas, available by glass or pitcher, are prominently featured; there is even a separate bar for them. Asked for a recommendation, Jaime pointed to El Rey on the list, saying, “I love that one.” I learned why: Herradura tequila, Cointreau, lime, and a splash of OJ. Mmmm. Sangria is also available.

Another feature added to this place since last year is a decorative makeover by artist Kyla Coburn, who has impressed diners with her imaginative work at Loie Fuller’s and other local res-taurants. Here, she has painted a colorful Hispanic-theme mural, interrupted by skinny windows and large half-moon mirrors. The painted bar counter lit from beneath is as fascinating as a glowing fireplace.

For dessert, we couldn’t decide between the flan ($4.95) and the intriguing-sounding chocolate tamale ($6.95), so we had both. The first, creamy comfort; the second, molten brownie baked in corn husks. How could we lose?

By the way, the appetizers here include calamari. It’s served with pico de gallo and chipotle sauce, but it has hot peppers and is fried, not sautéed. This is Federal Hill. At Don Jose, they’re culinary carpetbaggers, not crazy.  

Bill Rodriguez can be reached at bill@billrod.com.

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