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Sofia Italian Steakhouse

Versatility and competence go a long way
I have to admit I giggled when I got a press release describing this restaurant as being located in the “white-hot West Roxbury-Dedham dining scene.” After all, the space had already killed a reasonably good steak house, Vintage, after a long closure in which it tried to upscale, then ended up downscaling by adding red-sauce Italian dishes.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  October 28, 2009
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Ducali Pizzeria and Bar

Good Italian-American pies and cheap drafts: any questions?
My old boss liked to say that people are happiest when reality exceeds their expectations.
By MC SLIM JB  |  October 21, 2009

Antonio’s Trattoria

Comforting elegance
The Knightsville section of Cranston is an undeniable haven for Italian home-cooking, where legendary portions (Marchetti's), chic hotspots (Caffe Itri and L'Osteria), and marquee chef/owners (Tony Papa's) have successfully rubbed elbows along a suburban Cranston intersection. But don't forget the little guy on the corner -- Antonio's Trattoria.
By CHRIS CONTI  |  October 21, 2009

Zooma

Traditional cuisine updated
Being a ristorante on Federal Hill is a lot like being just another olive tree in the grove.
By BILL RODRIGUEZ  |  October 14, 2009
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Con Sol

Shining light on a secret Iberian bargain
Three-year-old ethnic bargain spot Con Sol snuck under reviewers' radar with an Iberian menu that draws mostly on Portuguese-American food — a cuisine that feels native to long-time Cantabrigians, but otherwise is little known north of New Bedford and Fall River or west of Provincetown.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  October 14, 2009
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North 26

A Jasper White protégé branches out with great success
I never call chefs before writing a review, but if I did speak with Brian Flagg of North 26, I'd ask him if Jasper White has ever paid a visit.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  September 30, 2009
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Rino's Place

Old-school, groaning-platter Italian-American meets authentic Italian in Eastie
I often chat up local chefs about their favorite restaurants, usually over drinks at late-night watering holes.
By MC SLIM JB  |  September 23, 2009

The Village Restaurant

Savoring the taste of Nigeria
I remember my click of recognition when I first saw a West African recipe for black-eyed-pea fritters with hot sauce, since my family in the South had always doused black-eyed peas with hot pepper sauce.
By JOHNETTE RODRIGUEZ  |  September 23, 2009

Andrew's Bistro

Posh presentations, reasonable prices
It's not hard for a restaurant to aspire to an upscale experience at downscale prices. What's hard is actually accomplishing it.
By BILL RODRIGUEZ  |  September 16, 2009
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Saray Turkish Restaurant

Middle Eastern cuisine at its finest
Saray snuck in under my radar because the sign outside advertised halal meat.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  September 16, 2009
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Tupelo

A sweet convergence of Cajun comfort and perfect pies
Sweet storyline here: Magnolia's goes along for years serving inexpensive Southern-style food, then Hungry Mother opens to vast acclaim, perhaps stealing a few foodies away.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  September 09, 2009

Christie's

A Thames Street institution
With the same name but new owners, the 60-year restaurant institution Christie's has been back in Newport for about three years, this time with a classy, upscale persona and yet an affordable, downscale menu. It's downstairs from the uber-posh Forty 1 North and certainly can hold its head up, chichi-wise, under that shadow.
By BILL RODRIGUEZ  |  September 02, 2009

The Pirate Girl

Shiver me stuffies!
The economic downturn is such that we may eventually see pirate ships showing off the Jolly Roger around Narragansett Bay. When they do, you can bet that their favorite place to unwind after a long day Yo-ho-ho -ing will be a friendly fisherman's bar and restaurant on a quiet road off the main strip in Galilee.
By BILL RODRIGUEZ  |  August 18, 2009
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Rowes Wharf Sea Grille

An acclaimed chef, a wonderful setting, and fabulous food
It's hard to believe Daniel Bruce has been executive chef at the Boston Harbor Hotel for 20 years, outlasting the managers that hired him and both of his original restaurants in these waterfront digs.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  August 19, 2009
20 milk list

Outdoor retreat

Twenty Milk's excellent lawn-dining experience
Portland's Old Port is most beautiful just when it is least hospitable — in the bitter cold of winter when the crowds dissipate and Pandora LaCasse's whimsical lights decorate the streets. Recently the Portland Regency Hotel has endeavored to capture some of the charms of winter in warmer months.
By BRIAN DUFF  |  August 12, 2009
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Dorado Tacos and Cemitas

Braving the early crowds for street-food flavors from Baja and Puebla
Braving the early crowds for street-food flavors from Baja and Puebla
By MC SLIM JB  |  August 12, 2009
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Pazzo

Bonkers? No, just crazy good.
BONKERS? NO, JUST CRAZY GOOD.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  August 12, 2009

Matunuck Oyster Bar

Stellar servings from the sea
Oyster and clam farmer Perry Raso, whose harvests have become quite popular over the past three years, has taken his livelihood one step further and opened his own eatery: the Matunuck Oyster Bar. It sits on a beautiful cove just north of East Matunuck State Beach, where many a restaurant has come and gone.
By JOHNETTE RODRIGUEZ  |  July 29, 2009

Blount Clam Shack

The Taste of Summer in Warren
The scene at Blount Clam Shack on a Sunday summer afternoon is like a well-orchestrated block party: large white tent for keeping out rain or providing shade; long, family-style picnic tables; outside the tent, more picnic tables and beach chairs; a large cooler with bottles of water; and live music from 3-7 pm, often provided by Warren resident Otis Read and friends.
By JOHNETTE RODRIGUEZ  |  July 22, 2009
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Max & Dylan's Kitchen & Bar

From the owners of Scollay Square, another fine bar-restaurant that does everything fairly well
Who is Max? Who is Dylan? The casual visitor cannot know. We know that the owners also have Scollay Square (which is not located in what used to be that square), so we have our suspicions that Max and Dylan are children or cats, or a confected evocation of the contrasting merits of ethnicity and cool.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  July 15, 2009

Rosinha's Restaurant

The traditional taste of Portugal
The latest eatery at Pawtucket's Hope Artiste Village is Rosinha's Restaurant, offering Portuguese cuisine — Cape Verdean, to be specific. Not wanting to give the wrong impression — music hipper and hoppier than fado sometimes reverberates from the Blackstone down the entrance corridor — a kind of manifesto stands at the door.
By BILL RODRIGUEZ  |  July 01, 2009

St. Clair Annex

Seasonal delights in Watch Hill
Seasonal delights in Watch Hill
By JOHNETTE RODRIGUEZ  |  June 24, 2009
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Where everyone knows your name

A conversation with the owners of Caiola's
A conversation with the owners of Caiola's
By LEISCHEN STELTER  |  June 24, 2009
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South End Pita

Even sandwich shops need a little time to grow up
Restaurant critics must perform a balancing act. We want to bring attention to worthy new places, but slagging a brand-new venue during its shakedown cruise for slow service or uneven kitchen output isn't really fair.
By MC SLIM JB  |  June 17, 2009
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Outdoor bites

Eve's at the Garden's lovely new happy-hour menu
Nothing democratizes like nature. Rousseau thought all primitives were equal until the moment someone thought to build a hut and move indoors. Nowadays people who would never enjoy similar books, films, or music nonetheless appreciate the beauty of the outdoors in much the same way.
By BRIAN DUFF  |  June 17, 2009

The Place

When only fancy will do
Sometimes a burger or a heap of nachos is just what the appetite (and budget) ordered. Sometimes nothing less than white linen elegance will do. A Newport place ambitiously named the Place bills itself as "the wine bar and grille at Yesterdays." The latter restaurant describes itself as "an alehouse;" it has 36 microbrews on tap and a menu that skews playful and Caribbean. Oy — a pint, mon.
By BILL RODRIGUEZ  |  June 17, 2009

Review: Chez Pascal

Regional fare, boundless pleasures
Everything about Chez Pascal, beginning with Monday Market Menus and ending with a gallery show for a Rhody painter, emphasizes co-owners Matt and Kristin Gennuso's support for local talent, be it farmers or artists.
By JOHNETTE RODRIGUEZ  |  June 10, 2009
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Sushi

Hoopleville
Sake, sashimi, tempura
By DAVID KISH  |  June 12, 2009
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Ahead of the curve

Rockland's Primo finds the future in past traditions
Popular tastes wax, wane, and wander about, but over the long run people most appreciate those things that are timelessly simple, elegant, and right: Roger Federer's backhand, German-expressionist art, cotton, and the summer here in Maine.
By BRIAN DUFF  |  June 10, 2009
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Exotic Sushi and Tapas

A little bit of everything, from Europe to Japan
Exotic Sushi and Tapas doesn't have the most exotic sushi, but the combination of Japanese bar snacks with their European small-plate counterparts is an unusual angle on fusion that can be worked into a square meal.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  June 10, 2009

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