Seafood

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The Pirate Girl

Shiver me stuffies!
The economic downturn is such that we may eventually see pirate ships showing off the Jolly Roger around Narragansett Bay. When they do, you can bet that their favorite place to unwind after a long day Yo-ho-ho -ing will be a friendly fisherman's bar and restaurant on a quiet road off the main strip in Galilee.
By BILL RODRIGUEZ | August 18, 2009

Rowes Wharf Sea Grille

An acclaimed chef, a wonderful setting, and fabulous food
It's hard to believe Daniel Bruce has been executive chef at the Boston Harbor Hotel for 20 years, outlasting the managers that hired him and both of his original restaurants in these waterfront digs.
By ROBERT NADEAU | August 19, 2009

Outdoor retreat

Twenty Milk's excellent lawn-dining experience
Portland's Old Port is most beautiful just when it is least hospitable — in the bitter cold of winter when the crowds dissipate and Pandora LaCasse's whimsical lights decorate the streets. Recently the Portland Regency Hotel has endeavored to capture some of the charms of winter in warmer months.
By BRIAN DUFF | August 12, 2009

Dorado Tacos and Cemitas

Braving the early crowds for street-food flavors from Baja and Puebla
Braving the early crowds for street-food flavors from Baja and Puebla
By MC SLIM JB | August 12, 2009

Pazzo

Bonkers? No, just crazy good.
BONKERS? NO, JUST CRAZY GOOD.
By ROBERT NADEAU | August 12, 2009

Matunuck Oyster Bar

Stellar servings from the sea
Oyster and clam farmer Perry Raso, whose harvests have become quite popular over the past three years, has taken his livelihood one step further and opened his own eatery: the Matunuck Oyster Bar. It sits on a beautiful cove just north of East Matunuck State Beach, where many a restaurant has come and gone.
By JOHNETTE RODRIGUEZ | July 29, 2009

Blount Clam Shack

The Taste of Summer in Warren
The scene at Blount Clam Shack on a Sunday summer afternoon is like a well-orchestrated block party: large white tent for keeping out rain or providing shade; long, family-style picnic tables; outside the tent, more picnic tables and beach chairs; a large cooler with bottles of water; and live music from 3-7 pm, often provided by Warren resident Otis Read and friends.
By JOHNETTE RODRIGUEZ | July 22, 2009

Max & Dylan's Kitchen & Bar

From the owners of Scollay Square, another fine bar-restaurant that does everything fairly well
Who is Max? Who is Dylan? The casual visitor cannot know. We know that the owners also have Scollay Square (which is not located in what used to be that square), so we have our suspicions that Max and Dylan are children or cats, or a confected evocation of the contrasting merits of ethnicity and cool.
By ROBERT NADEAU | July 15, 2009

Rosinha's Restaurant

The traditional taste of Portugal
The latest eatery at Pawtucket's Hope Artiste Village is Rosinha's Restaurant, offering Portuguese cuisine — Cape Verdean, to be specific. Not wanting to give the wrong impression — music hipper and hoppier than fado sometimes reverberates from the Blackstone down the entrance corridor — a kind of manifesto stands at the door.
By BILL RODRIGUEZ | July 01, 2009

St. Clair Annex

Seasonal delights in Watch Hill
Seasonal delights in Watch Hill
By JOHNETTE RODRIGUEZ | June 24, 2009

Where everyone knows your name

A conversation with the owners of Caiola's
A conversation with the owners of Caiola's
By LEISCHEN STELTER | June 24, 2009

South End Pita

Even sandwich shops need a little time to grow up
Restaurant critics must perform a balancing act. We want to bring attention to worthy new places, but slagging a brand-new venue during its shakedown cruise for slow service or uneven kitchen output isn't really fair.
By MC SLIM JB | June 17, 2009

Outdoor bites

Eve's at the Garden's lovely new happy-hour menu
Nothing democratizes like nature. Rousseau thought all primitives were equal until the moment someone thought to build a hut and move indoors. Nowadays people who would never enjoy similar books, films, or music nonetheless appreciate the beauty of the outdoors in much the same way.
By BRIAN DUFF | June 17, 2009

The Place

When only fancy will do
Sometimes a burger or a heap of nachos is just what the appetite (and budget) ordered. Sometimes nothing less than white linen elegance will do. A Newport place ambitiously named the Place bills itself as "the wine bar and grille at Yesterdays." The latter restaurant describes itself as "an alehouse;" it has 36 microbrews on tap and a menu that skews playful and Caribbean. Oy — a pint, mon.
By BILL RODRIGUEZ | June 17, 2009

Review: Chez Pascal

Regional fare, boundless pleasures
Everything about Chez Pascal, beginning with Monday Market Menus and ending with a gallery show for a Rhody painter, emphasizes co-owners Matt and Kristin Gennuso's support for local talent, be it farmers or artists.
By JOHNETTE RODRIGUEZ | June 10, 2009

Sushi

Hoopleville
Sake, sashimi, tempura
By DAVID KISH | June 12, 2009

Ahead of the curve

Rockland's Primo finds the future in past traditions
Popular tastes wax, wane, and wander about, but over the long run people most appreciate those things that are timelessly simple, elegant, and right: Roger Federer's backhand, German-expressionist art, cotton, and the summer here in Maine.
By BRIAN DUFF | June 10, 2009

Exotic Sushi and Tapas

A little bit of everything, from Europe to Japan
Exotic Sushi and Tapas doesn't have the most exotic sushi, but the combination of Japanese bar snacks with their European small-plate counterparts is an unusual angle on fusion that can be worked into a square meal.
By ROBERT NADEAU | June 10, 2009

Champlin's Seafood

Clam shack bragging rights
There are clam shacks and there are clam shacks. Champlin's is more of a clam duplex, hot meals upstairs and fish market below. If you have friends visiting from the coast of Maine, where they take this sort of place seriously, bring them down and show them how things should be done.
By BILL RODRIGUEZ | June 03, 2009

Maria's Seaside Café

The place to be in Misquamicut
The recent mini-heat-wave that made us all optimistic that summer really would roll around again set us to thinking about seasonal restaurants along Rhode Island's shore.
By JOHNETTE RODRIGUEZ | May 27, 2009

Korean Garden Restaurant

Enjoy, we're here to help
Despite being open only six months, Korean Garden already has 22 Internet reviews.
By ROBERT NADEAU | May 27, 2009

Keep your skin on

Grilling fish whole is a tasty variation
Skinless, boneless cuts of fish are convenient — you don't have to clean them yourself — but getting rid of those "extras" takes away a lot of flavor, and a lot of the nutrition, too. Good news! It's easy to grill whole fish, and they make a great centerpiece for summer cookouts.
By TODD RICHARD | May 27, 2009

Review: Off the Boat Seafood

Large portions, now served in a larger space
To find Off the Boat Seafood, a South Italian take-out joint that just this winter added a 10-table dining room and a wine list, mainlanders will pass through the Callahan Tunnel and embark on an exercise so challenging it's not unlike finding the Northwest Passage.
By ROBERT NADEAU | May 20, 2009

Los Andes

Back in delicious style
It makes sense that the people who run Los Andes are the ones who had a popular place further up Chalkstone for nine years. It was named simply the Bolivian Restaurant and was, in fact, pretty definitive. At a recent visit to the new restaurant, a fellow diner enthused that the baked saltinas (potato, yucca, and cheese), an indulgence-encouraging two-buck impulse purchase "at the Bolivian," were "worth driving across town for." Indeed.
By BILL RODRIGUEZ | May 20, 2009

The Local

New Newton favorite attempts less, achieves more
How many times have I reviewed fried calamari just in the last decade? Maybe 70, 80 times, right?
By ROBERT NADEAU | May 13, 2009

Rue De L'Espoir

So much to savor!
Perhaps the first thing to explain about the Rue's hours is that they represent breakfast, lunch, and dinner times and, on the weekends, brunch and dinner, with a "late lunch" on Sundays. The menu, like the weekly schedule, seems designed for an indecisive Gemini, a genus of which I'm a member.
By JOHNETTE RODRIGUEZ | May 06, 2009

East Side Bar and Grille

What's old is new again — and still in style
Back in the day, a certain brand of bar-restaurant served Greater Boston neighborhoods well with plentiful food: fried seafood, steaks and chops, and usually some Italian-American dishes.
By ROBERT NADEAU | April 29, 2009

The Barking Crab

A clam shack with extras
The Barking Crab's second location in Newport is the ideal spot for strolling summer tourists, right in the downtown harborfront
By BILL RODRIGUEZ | April 22, 2009

Poppa B's

Sweet Southern hospitality + fine Southern technique = matchless Southern comfort
Pity the poor transplanted Southerner in frosty New England. Iced tea comes from powder. Nobody's heard of a butter bean.
By MC SLIM JB | April 22, 2009

Panza Ristorante

A good North End restaurant without a line? Enjoy it while it lasts.
Panza, which replaced Cibo in a small space just off the busiest blocks of Hanover Street, strikes a nice balance between red-sauce expectations, a bit of cheffery, and prices you can live with.
By ROBERT NADEAU | April 22, 2009

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