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Restaurant Reviews
Review: Off the Boat Seafood
Large portions, now served in a larger space
To find Off the Boat Seafood, a South Italian take-out joint that just this winter added a 10-table dining room and a wine list, mainlanders will pass through the Callahan Tunnel and embark on an exercise so challenging it's not unlike finding the Northwest Passage.
By:
ROBERT NADEAU
| May 20, 2009
The Local
New Newton favorite attempts less, achieves more
How many times have I reviewed fried calamari just in the last decade? Maybe 70, 80 times, right?
By:
ROBERT NADEAU
| May 13, 2009
Sensing
An old twist for a new French restaurant
I've enjoyed the revival of 1950s-style French bistros, but it's been quite a while since I could review a full-tilt example of 1980s French "nouvelle cuisine," which brought on bipolar reform.
By:
ROBERT NADEAU
| May 06, 2009
East Side Bar and Grille
What's old is new again — and still in style
Back in the day, a certain brand of bar-restaurant served Greater Boston neighborhoods well with plentiful food: fried seafood, steaks and chops, and usually some Italian-American dishes.
By:
ROBERT NADEAU
| April 29, 2009
Panza Ristorante
A good North End restaurant without a line? Enjoy it while it lasts.
Panza, which replaced Cibo in a small space just off the busiest blocks of Hanover Street, strikes a nice balance between red-sauce expectations, a bit of cheffery, and prices you can live with.
By:
ROBERT NADEAU
| April 22, 2009
Boston's Best Food and Drink 2009
Keeping it all back home
The danger of doing an annual Best issue is that readers could well screw up the whole thing, especially when it comes to eating out. It would suck if they voted for the too-familiar national-chain eateries. Best Hamburger: McDonalds?!
By:
BOSTON PHOENIX STAFF
| April 19, 2009
Great Taste Bakery and Restaurant
A Chinatown eatery that lives up to its name
After a series of unimpressive Chinese restaurants (and one Korean place) had vacated the premises, this odd double-storefront reopened with a silly name — and actually delivers on it. All the food we had did taste great!
By:
ROBERT NADEAU
| April 15, 2009
Bond Restaurant and Lounge
Good small plates and wine — license to kill not necessary
Boy, do these people ever wish they had gone for the James Bond theme instead of the US Savings Bond décor?
By:
ROBERT NADEAU
| May 05, 2009
Ecco Restaurant and Martini Bar
Eastie gets a fine, trendy bistro of its own
An East Boston bistro? Kind of doesn't have a ring to it — especially since we're not talking about Orient Heights or Jeffries Point.
By:
ROBERT NADEAU
| April 01, 2009
Amici
Odd hours make this a rare North End treat
Remember the spirit and savor of the old-time North End red-sauce restaurants? Amici still does.
By:
ROBERT NADEAU
| March 25, 2009
Thaitation Thai Cuisine
Brown Sugar gets even sweeter
I'm convinced that one of the reasons this restaurant column doesn't get the national readership it deserves is that, I keep raving about owner-chefs like Dusadan Lee Narbanshart.
By:
ROBERT NADEAU
| March 18, 2009
Ristorante Damiano
Small plates pack a big punch
We Americans think of Italian food as the bountiful, overloaded tables, but when we travel to Italy, we find small plates and fashionably skinny Italians splitting dishes in four courses.
By:
ROBERT NADEAU
| March 11, 2009
Asana
Fine form and function at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel
Luxury dining has long been associated with hotels, but hotel restaurants must walk the line.
By:
ROBERT NADEAU
| March 04, 2009
Ghazal Fine Indian Cuisine
A new neighbor tones down the décor and excels in spots
Ghazal provides a variety of dishes that Bukhara (the other Indian restaurant in the area) does not, plus warm service, competitive pricing, and mixed drinks.
By:
ROBERT NADEAU
| February 26, 2009
Sportello
Lynch tests new, comfortable waters
Famed chef Barbara Lynch has a two-part plan for taking over the Fort Point Channel area.
By:
ROBERT NADEAU
| February 27, 2009
Mu Lan Taiwanese Restaurant; Boston primo for pizza
Fine, fast food in the Asian subcategory
Mu Lan opened three years ago and changed chefs and menus this past summer, but has maintained a good reputation in the increasingly competitive Taiwan subcategory of Asian food.
By:
ROBERT NADEAU
| February 12, 2009
Review: Black Sheep
Former firehouse lights small spark
FORMER FIREHOUSE LIGHTS SMALL SPARK
By:
ROBERT NADEAU
| February 04, 2009
Review: Craigie on Main
Local, fresh, and fantastic
While culinary fads have come and gone, Chef Tony Maws has stuck by his sound principles.
By:
ROBERT NADEAU
| January 28, 2009
Bina Osteria
Opulence: enjoy it while you can
Bina Osteria may be the last luxury restaurant to open in Boston for a long time — or at least the last that isn't situated in a boutique hotel.
By:
ROBERT NADEAU
| January 21, 2009
New Rod Dee
Love lost, but fear not . . . a new one's arrived
Alas, fire has taken out Rod Dee II, in the Fenway.
By:
ROBERT NADEAU
| January 20, 2009
The Savant Project
Mostly mediocre, but with flourishes of excellence
It showed such promise: great name, good early food reviews, and rumors of expansion plans.
By:
ROBERT NADEAU
| January 07, 2009
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