HOT FEAST: Roast Beast


Piglets and kids and lambs, oh my. Local kitchens are becoming full-fledged menageries these days, with more and more chefs getting into the groove of whole-animal roasts. First on the bandwagon (or perhaps "ark" is a better word?) were Scampo (215 Charles Street, Boston, 617.536.2100), Estragon (700 Harrison Avenue, Boston, 617.266.0443), and Citizen Public House & Oyster Bar (1310 Boylston Street, Boston, 617.450.9000). Now BiNA Osteria (581 Washington Street, Boston, 617.956.0888) and Sel de la Terre (774 Boylston Street, Boston, 617.266.8800) have jumped on board. Some roasts are offered as regularly scheduled specials; others require advance notice. They can be prix fixe or market priced, à la carte or with trimmings - from shellfish platters at Citizen to charcuterie samplers at Sel de la Terre. But all ensure you'll be up to your ears in pork, goat, or lamb. Could barbecued sides of beef, à la Argentine asado, be far behind?

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